How-To: Select the Correct Threads for Sewing Leather

Rebecca Eaton

Posted on January 31 2022

How-To: Select the Correct Threads for Sewing Leather

✰ Have you been wondering which threads to use for sewing leather at home? You've come to the right place!

✰Hey everyone, welcome to another super quick and easy guide on setting up your machine. Today we are covering threads, and what I would recommend to start using on your bag-making journey.

Using the correct thread is always important in sewing, but especially when working with leather. There are so many different options and it can all be a bit overwhelming at first, so I have condensed all my knowledge into a few recommendations that are easy to find and not too costly: 

 Nylon-Bonded for Industrial Sewing machines:

Nylon bonded thread is a wonderful product to use for leather bags. It is almost impossible to snap and it comes in a variety of thickness. The method of how the thread is made is unlike most threads, the three strands  are all bonded together which makes for a very durable thread which is fantastic for the longevity of your bag. It works beautifully on the industrial sewing machines but I have found it is a little problematic on domestic sewing machines. I tend to use a variety of thickness of nylon bonded thread. We use M40 thread for the basic seam lines and to provide a more delicate topstitch. Then M20 thickness for a more obvious top stitch with a stitch length 6 and size 140/22 leather point needle. I particularly like using the M20 on vegtan leather products.  Nylon bonded also comes in size M60 which is even thinner that M40, this thickness can also be used on domestic machines, but it may be hard to source one with a spool that is compatible with smaller machines, you could experiment with loading the thread onto a bobbin and using the bobbin as your top and bottom thread.

A great place to source Nylon bonded thread is PT Winchester. 

Gutterman Polyester Thread for Domestic Sewing machines

It is very important to spend a little bit more on a good quality thread for sewing leather on domestic sewing machines. I really like using polyester thread, unlike cotton-based threads polyester will never perish! When working on domestic sewing machines I like to use a Gutterman "All sew" normal thickness thread for all the seam lines and then when top-stitching I use a topstitching thread which is little thicker. I set the stitch length to 4 and use 120/19 leather point needle. When topstitching I use that thread on the top of the machine, and then mount the thinner "All sew" Gutterman thread on the bobbin. This can really help the machine and prevent any issues. 

You can buy Gutterman threads from lots of places, one example is Hobbycraft

I hope that quick lesson was handy! Please ask me any questions you might have in the comments below.

See you next time!

Bex xx

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